It's the holiday season, and you know what that means. Cookies! When I was little, Christmas often meant that it was time for my Italian grandmother to whip up batches of her favorite old-world treats with her daughter in-law, my mom. Sometimes, there were pizelle - literally, "little pizzas" in Italian. Grandma would pour anise-scented batter onto a hot pizelle iron, which when pressed together around the sizzling mixture would result in lacy, round discs that were so crispy and light, they fairly shattered in your mouth.
My brother's favorites, as I recall, were an Italian riff on jam thumb-prints: rounds of cake-like dough flavored with almond, with a dollop of sticky red jam in the center. I favored Grandma's spice cookies, which bore no resemblance to the ginger-and-molasses variety most of us are used to seeing. The Italian version is soft and dark, baked from a dough of allspice, cinnamon, raisins and chocolate, the little mounds iced with a white, powdered-sugar glaze. Dad's choice? I remember him liking them all, but he often reached for the Sicilian cookies called "cuccidati," pockets of butter-colored cookie dough filled with a mixture of dried figs, dates, nuts and spices. As for my mom and my sister, always "struffoli" - Grandma's honey cakes. Always. Truth be told, we all loved those little fried footballs of citrusey cake soaked in honey. I don't know how she did it, but when Grandma made struffoli, she was able to find a perfect balance of sticky, crispy, and pillowy in each one-inch bite.
So with Christmas in the air, my mind naturally wanders back to my mom's kitchen, and the image of my tiny (4' 10") Grandma churning out dozens and dozens of sweets. Yep, it's that time of year. Time to bake cookies!